A geologist, professor desio led scientific expeditions well into his 90s, visiting. Lino lacedellis story is one more proof of the oftenquoted 15th century proverb truth will out. K2, at 8,611 metres 28,251 ft above sea level, is the second highest mountain in the world, after mount everest at 8,848 metres 29,029 ft. The events of the expedition, and resulting fallout, are a complicated story involving the actions of bonatti, achille compagnoni, and lino lacedelli and the successful first ascent of k2.
The karakoram is a great mountain system in northeast. Lino lacedelli 4 december 1925 20 november 2009 was an italian mountaineer. Ascent of k2 by ardito desio 1 edition first published in 1955 not in library. To mark the occasion, 11 expeditions bought permits. Taken by vittorio sella during the duke of abruzzi expedition to the karakorum in 1909 the second attempt on the mountain following oscar eckenstein and aleister crowleys effort in 1902 this print of the southeast face of k2 is no. K2 is situated in the karakoram range on the border between pakistan and china. On july 31, 1954, two italians, achille compagnoni and lino lacedelli, became the first humans to stand atop k2, the worlds second highest mountain. Victory over k2, second highest peak in the world ardito desio. The following is a list of books about k2, a mountain in the karakorum range between pakistan and china, listed by expedition date. Ardito desio, an inveterate explorer who in 1954 meticulously organized the first ascent of k2, the worlds second highest mountain, died on dec. Author of the work of the italians in the scientific exploration of the karakorum central asia, short history of the geological, mining and oil exploration in libya, libro bianco, geologia dellitalia, bibliografia geologica italiana dellafrica sino al 1948 incluso, i ghiacciai del gruppo ortlescevedale alpi centrali, le vie della sete, le ricerche scientifiche della spedizione.
In his book, ascent of k2 page 82, ardito desio writes that the expedition. A thundering account of what really happened during the legendary k2 expedition in 1954, an epic achievement that has always been clouded in mystery the truth. Together with achille compagnoni, he was the first man to reach the summit of k2 on july 31, 1954. Dj good, 4 tears to top of jacket at 5, 10, 15 and. This is the first printing of the first edition of victory over k2 second highest peak in the world by ardito desio. On the 1954 italian karakoram expedition to k2 achille compagnoni and lino lacedelli. On the expedition were walter bonatti and hunza porter amir mahdi who proved vital to the expeditions success. The truth regarding one of mountaineerings great controversies is revealed after more than 50 years photos from the historical first ascent of k2 uncovers personalities previously confined to the shadows, forgotten and erased incidents, and the intense emotions surrounding this event on july 31, 1954, two italians, achille compagnoni and lino lacedelli, became the first humans to stand. Italians proudly describe the first ascent of k2 as one of the. That compagnoni and lacedelli had reached the summit of k2 was not in dispute at issue was the extent to which they had depended on support from other climbers high on the mountain, how they had treated bonatti and. Ascent of k2 by ardito desio d5f72e from alamys library of millions of high resolution stock photos, illustrations and vectors. Dec 25, 2001 ardito desio, an inveterate explorer who in 1954 meticulously organized the first ascent of k2, the worlds second highest mountain, died on dec. Led by italian climber ardito desio, the expedition to make the first successful ascent to the summit of k2, did so via the abruzzi spur on 31 july 1954.
Online shopping from a great selection at books store. Nov 24, 2009 lino lacedellis story is one more proof of the oftenquoted 15th century proverb truth will out. The price of conquest is a really interesting look at the first ascent of the worlds second highest mountain, k2. The official account of the first ascent of k2, the giant mountain in the karakoram. Second highest peak in the world 1956 mcgraw hill ny 1st, 8vo, pp. Ascent of k2 by ardito desio d5f71w from alamys library of millions of high resolution stock photos, illustrations and vectors. One of the most important books on karakoram mountaineering.
Vittorio sella 18591943, photographer, k2 christies. Ardito desio at k2 in 1954 from 1952 to 1955, he led 3 expeditions to the karakorum range and hindu kush. In the 50 years since the italian ascent of k2, lino lacedelli never released a statement regarding the summit climb he made with achille compagnoni, an event which was celebrated in italy with great pride. The event was celebrated all over italy with great pride, but when the team led by ardito desio returned home a. They were members of an italian expedition led by ardito desio. It is located on the chinapakistan border between baltistan in the gilgitbaltistan region of northern pakistan, and the taxkorgan tajik autonomous county of xinjiang, china. This is the official account of the 1954 italian expedition that completed the first ascent of k2, with achille compagnoni and lino lacedelli reaching the k2 summit on july 30, 1954. Asia, pakistan, karakoram, baltoro muztagh, k2, various. In his book, ascent of k2 page 82, ardito desio writes that the expedition had two different oxygenmask systems, one similar to those of the swiss and the.
K2, various ascents and records in the anniversary year. In 1954 bonatti was a 24yearold member of ardito desio s k2 expedition. The event was celebrated all over italy with great pride, but when the team led by ardito desio returned home a terrible accusation was leveled at them. Why k2 brings out the best and worst in those who climb it. The american ascent of k2 by ridgeway, rick and a great selection of related books, art and collectibles available now at. It is the original first italian edition with all text in italian. He is also noted for leaving his teammates amir mehdi and walter bonatti in a lifethreatening situation in order to ensure that he reached the summit first.
Lacedelli was half of the twoman duo who stood on the summit for the first time. However, when the team, led by ardito desio, returned home a terrible accusation was leveled. The book has since been published in english as k2 the price of conquest. In his book bonatti displays proof of his innocence, including a photograph of. An italian expedition succeeded in ascending k2 via the abruzzi spur on 31 july 1954. Bonatti and local porter madhi were ordered to bring spare oxygen bottles to lino and achille on summit push from final camp 8. They argued about everything from expedition finances, to the rights to the film, to the leadership of ardito desio, the organizer of the expedition. The first successful ascent of k2, which at 8,611 m 28,251 ft is the worlds second highest mountain, was achieved by achille compagnoni and lino lacedelli both italy on 31 july 1954. Victory over k2, second highest peak in the world ardito.
Martin conway, climbing and exploration in the karakoram himalayas, 1894, yakushi c336a. It is led by professor ardito desio, of milan university. The high camp was farther away than bonatti and madhi had. Achille compagnoni and lino lacedelli reached the summit of k2 for the first time on the 1954. Italian mountaineers conquer k2 archive, 1954 world news the. Ardito desio, italian geologist and explorer born april 18, 1897, palmanova, italydied dec. July 31,2004 marked the 50th anniversary of the first ascent of 8,611m k2 by achille compagnoni and lino lacedelli from ardito desio s italian expedition. Sella to commemorate the first ascent of k2 in 1954. This original italian edition has more photos than the english language translations.
Desio, the geology professor who led the expedition, died in 2001 at the age. Second highest peak in the world first edition by ardito desio, david moore isbn. Joska was a member of the 1983 italian expedition led by francesco santon, which made the second successful ascent of the north ridge 73183. Confessions from the first ascent of k2 italians proudly describe the first ascent of k2 as one of the golden pages in climbing history. Ascent of k2 by ardito desio signed first edition 1955.
This is bonattis first book devoted to the italian k2 affair of 1954. Sep 27, 2007 taken by vittorio sella during the duke of abruzzi expedition to the karakorum in 1909 the second attempt on the mountain following oscar eckenstein and aleister crowleys effort in 1902 this print of the southeast face of k2 is no. This book was published in 1956 by mcgrawhill in new york. Ardito desio, inveterate explorer who in 1954 organized first ascent of. When, at 6pm on 31 july 1954, achille compagnoni and lino lacedelli became the first climbers to reach the summit of k2, it seemed as if italy was back on track. The official account of the 1954 italian first ascent of k2.
Desio, ardito victory over k2 by ardito first edition. This is the photo book to have of this important first ascent. It is a story of triumph and of a truth concealed for more than 50 years to be at last revealed. Lacking the signatures of ardito desio he did not sign much, mario fantin, and mario puchoz who died on the mountain. Dj good, 4 tears to top of jacket at 5, 10, 15 and 20mm.
The 1954 italian k2 expedition is probably the most rancorous in the history of mountaineering. Photo gallery, ascent routes and map of mount k2 the. Everyday low prices and free delivery on eligible orders. Lino lacedelli on the peak of k2 at the end of the first. Ardito desio 18972001 an italian geologist, geographer and explorer, ardito desio led the first successful ascent of k2, 50 years ago this month. Book signed lacedelli,compagnoni,and included signed letter by desio. Six lives lost last years american expedition to k2 also lost one life.
The price of conquest will appeal primarily to those interested in the history of high altitude climbing, for an honest account of expedition politics, the rub of climbers egos, and the difficulties of functioning at high altitude with primitive equipment. One issue is that the latest books written by walter bonatti on k2, particularly k2. The first climber to summit k2 twice was a czech climber josef rakoncaj. The book measures 218mm tall x 145mm, and has 273 pages, 63 bw photos on 24 plates, 3 maps, 1 chart. Almost as soon as the team got home the lawsuits started. Second highest peak in the world, 1955, yakushi d167b, edition ardito desio, libro bianco, 1956, yakushi d168, edition only mario fantin, sogno visuto, 1958, yakushi f10, edition only. Today all italy is standing up to acclaim you as fearless leaders of our race. K2 is the highest point of the karakoram range and the highest point in.
It has the secondhighest fatality rate among all the peaks which reach more than 8,000 metres, collectively known as the eight thousanders, and all situated in the himalayan and karakoram ranges. This is the first printing of the first italian edition of ascent of k2 or victory over k2. The two climbers who reached the summit were lino lacedelli and achille compagnoni. The official film and expedition book barely mentioned bonatti and mahdis epic trip up the. Seconda cima del mondo ascent of k2 ardito desio 1st italian edition hardcover dj fine signed by lino lacedelli and achille compagnoni desio, ardito. Francis younghusband, the heart of a continent, 1896, yakushi y27 1892 british conway. After all, lacedelli did summit in the first conquest of this mountain, then the highest unclimbed summit on earth. The most massive assault on any major peak in the history of mountaineering, hindered by worse than average weather, barely succeeded in putting two men on the summit of k2 late in the afternoon of july 31, 1954. Achille compagnoni and lino lacedelli reached the summit of k2 for the first time on the 1954 italian karakoram expedition to k2 but for over fifty years the 1954 italian karakoram expedition controversy dragged on concerning whether the official report written by the expeditions leader, ardito desio, gave a true picture of the expedition. Jul 31, 2006 on july 31, 1954, two italians, achille compagnoni and lino lacedelli, became the first humans to stand atop k2, the worlds second highest mountain. Ardito desio led the expedition and the summit was reached on 31 july 1954. K2 trekking guidebooks, books, external links, dvds and videos.
The english translation of this readable book is adequately illustrated. This book has been signed on the shorttitle page by achille compagnoni and by lino lacedelli, the two who made the first ascent of the mountain. Together with achille compagnoni, on 31 july 1954 he was the first man to reach the summit of k2. This signed copy is quite interesting as bonattis signature on this book is very rare. Italian mountaineers conquer k2 archive, 1954 world news. July 31,2004 marked the 50th anniversary of the first ascent of 8,611m k2 by achille compagnoni and lino lacedelli from ardito desios italian expedition. Slight bumping top bottom of spine, slight 7mm stain to front of cover,slight foxing to page edges, dulled spine,clean internally. Aug 04, 2017 italian mountaineers conquer k2 archive, 1954 4 august 1954. This copy has the blindstamp of the societa italiana degli autori ed editori siae, italian authors and publishers association as i have seen in other copies. Second highest peak in the world ardito desio 1955 1st uk ed hardcover dj fine desio, ardito chessler books rock climbing mountaineering exploration. Ardito desio italian geologist and explorer britannica.
578 840 1341 1331 1289 211 1470 910 588 122 1139 1278 1354 136 394 673 570 921 1394 1011 1212 419 146 1050 659 1514 32 47 1489 713 430 1053 125 532 701 144 1480 199